For decades, the ritual of ridiculing plane food has brought united travelers far away. Criticism was even worse when airlines cut budgets and offered shelves stable snacks and meals.
However, investments in food and drinks in flight are not only returning, but are becoming important differentiators to boost airline cash. Take the Delta Air Line, for example. Late last year, Carrier announced a partnership with Shake Shack, rolling out the chain’s burgers to top-class passengers with pre-orders for meals in flight at 35,000 feet. The collaboration expanded to several more cities in March, including flights departing from flagship markets Los Angeles and New York.
“A lot of people ask me, isn’t it burger fast food? What does it do in the first class country?” said Ash Dhokte, Vice President of Onboard Service Operations at Delta. However, Dhokte claims that Shake Shack is “premium” and is consistent as a brand partner.
The question of whether Shake Shack is enough gourmet to be served in the first class is debatable, but one thing teeth surely. Passengers were gobbling them, and the toasted potato bread beef pate became the number one pre-order item in the Delta when available.
Creating new menu items and restaurant collaborations is both art and science. As the plane climbs to an altitude, air pressure drops while the humidity inside the cabin is decreasing. (At 30,000 feet, the relative humidity may be drier than most deserts.)
According to a 2010 survey commissioned by German airline Lufthansa, both of these factors dull the sensitivity of taste buds, especially sweet and salty foods, by about 30%. As a result, airlines need to ensure the flavor of their meals. More salt, spices and sugar than more salt, spices and sugar is used in restaurants on the ground.
Next is the artistic components. We have created a seasonal menu for Alaska Airlines for Brandon Jews, owner of Michelin-starring Mr. Jews in San Francisco. This is a process that took about six months and overturns how most airlines serve and prepare meals.
Alaska allowed Jews to bring in providers to work with at Mister Jiu’s, including Steppe Creek, a progressive ranch dedicated to environmental management. That was the easy part.
“The challenge is what’s best for when it’s fully cooked and then reheated,” the Jews say. The Jewish team spent several weeks testing, sampling and experimenting with recipes, with the goal of “providing a comforting meal that will bring you home.” First class passengers on the transcontinental Alaska Flight can now order dishes such as tea-smoking soy chicken and short ribs stewed in traditional Japanese Shiokojima marinade.
Beyond Seoul’s Pacific Ocean, Korean air overhauled the entire drink and drink menu in March in all cabins. And that was a big deal. The carrier had not changed the products in flight in 15 years. This reform was part of a radical change to modernize the career and ultimately remained competitive. “I ate so many meals that I thought I would throw it away,” said Kenneth Chang, chief marketing officer at Korea Airlines.
The airline tapped Seakyeong Kim, owner of Cesta in Seoul to create the menu. A new interpretation of Korean bibimbap, including brisket, octopus or truffles, both in the economy and in the premium cabin. Even western diets get updates that match changes in taste. Business and top-class passengers can expect child tenderloin and crab, or duck confit, surf and grass with steamed black cod.
Back Stateside, both Delta and Shake Shack spent nearly two years developing burgers in flight. It may seem like an overtime in a dish, but this process required the perfect “orchestra” to run on a large scale. Last year, Delta served 44 million meals worldwide.
Docte and his team had to source specialized equipment, such as bread toast and butter devices, for each airport kitchen. Next, we needed a network of suppliers needed to mimic Shake Shack’s ingredients and provide comparable taste profiles. (The pate is cooked on the ground before the flash is frozen, then reheated on board.) Think of it as a reverse engineering exercise.
With new menu items like new burgers and chicken entrees, the airline’s flight attendant roster must learn how to deliver the final product. Testing in flight helps you fine-tune the process. On flight three, passengers had the option of Shake Shack Burger before it was officially launched, so the crew had real experience with the service flow. “Do you need to pack things differently? Do you need to put the bread on the side three times?
Are there any items that are significantly missing from the Delta Shake Shack menu? french fries. It is particularly difficult to create a completely crispy fry in the air due to the reheating process. But that may happen one day. “I don’t think we’ll stop where we are. There’s probably time and place for them,” Dotte teased.
